You know you've come to the right place to play outdoors when the best map for the area is a 3 ft. by 5 ft. map of the Bitterroot National Forest. Throw away the road maps - they aren't broad enough to help you get where you're going.
The Bitterroot Valley is a place of landmarks. Locals give directions like history lessons..... "... turn left where the Tucker barn burned down or where the bridge over the river used to be ...". Mostly, it's newcomers that reference County roads, which read like old west journals - Chief Joseph Trail, Arrow Hill, Bonanza Lands, Indian Prairie Loop, Gold Creek, and Rawhide Lane. After being here awhile though, everyone gives directions by the landmarks... like the big horse training place, or the saddle maker, or the fly fishing shop, or the bend of the river, or the break in the trees. "Just go up the canyon until you get into the pines, and we're the first road on the left". That's the way people orient in Montana. So be sure to get your local forest service map and be sure to keep your eyes on the scenery so you can understand local directions.
Forest Service maps can be found at the Ranger District offices located in Stevensville, Hamilton, Darby, Sula and West Fork. These offices offer FREE information about recreation opportunities, fire lookout rentals, wildflower brochures, books on birds, and many other colorful materials of interest to visitors. The first ranger station in the United States was a log cabin built by early pioneers Than Wilkerson and Henry Tuttle in 1899. It is a well preserved monument to the early commitment to protect the natural resources of a beautiful land.
BITTERROOT NATIONAL FOREST AND SELWAY BITTERROOT WILDERNESS
Imagine a forest with clear mountain streams full of wild trout, rocky canyons turned pink by the morning sun, and snow covered peaks rising 10,000 feet above sea level watching over fertile valleys all year long. Now imagine that forest is 1,239,840 acres in size and designated as Forest Service and Wilderness and protected from modern civilization.
This vast acreage is the backyard for all who are lucky enough to live in the Bitterroot Valley. Add in the Anaconda-Pintlar and Welcome Creek Wilderness and throw in 2.2 million acres in the Frank Church River of No Return next door, (the largest designated wilderness in the lower forty-eight states) and you'll see we have the biggest back-country playground around. There are over one hundred lakes which provide fishing for cutthroat, rainbow, and brook trout. The forests are home to many species of wildlife, from mule deer, whitetail deer, elk, bighorn sheep, mountain goats, black bear, mountain lions, moose and, soon (maybe), grizzly bears. Glacier National Park is a few hours drive from the Bitterroot Valley and is considered the crown of the continent. For information about the park call 1-800-338-5072.
BACKPACKING
The Bitterroot Mountain Range separates Idaho from Montana. The area is so vast as to be considered a "hikers state" with thousands of acres of high mountain lakes, crystal clear streams, and vast canyons that wind through some of the most amazing country in the United States. The crest of the granite mass is dotted with peaks that rise more that 5,000 feet in less than three miles. The tallest of these is Trapper Peak at 10,300 ft. above sea level. Canyons run east and west making inviting corridors into the mountains' center - follow them and follow your heart and soul.
Water is usually abundant along the trails, but canteens are recommended with water purification pumps. Extra clothes, a map, compass, and first aid items are easy to carry in a day pack. The mountain trails vary from well marked to challenging and from easy terrain to challenging rock faces. Wildflowers, huckleberries, fabulous vistas, and west slope cutthroat trout await every hiker young and old.
Pick up "The Hiker's Guide to Montana" Bill Schneider published by Falcon Press $12.95. It is an excellent guide to trails and lakes with details maps and highlights. It includes 120 hikes throughout Big Sky Country. |
Bitterroot National Forest Service District offices have area campground information. Call Montana Department of Fish, Wildlife, and Parks in Missoula: (406) 542-5500
HORSEBACK RIDING
Riding horses in the Bitterroot Mountains is like going to church - it's good for the spirit.
There are many riding groups ranging from The Back Country Horseman, neighbors working cows, rodeos, roping and cutting, 4-H for young people, Pony Club, Poker Rides, or just a quiet ride with the dog. There are horses to buy, sell, trade, and rent throughout the Valley. In short, the Bitterroot is horse country!
There are hundreds of miles of mountain trails nearby. There are places to trailer and places to ride right from private property directly into the Forest and Wilderness areas. High country fishing is good for an overnight stay and huckleberry picking occupies the time while the horses rest on a hot summer afternoon.
Western Horseman Magazine featured a story about the Saddle Tramps in 1993. Here's a summary just for fun:
| "For 42 years this Montana ladies-only riding club has ridden the Bitterroot Valley. The structure of the club is informal. There are no dues, no boards, and no meetings. The ladies simply meet every Wednesday and ride horseback through some awesomely beautiful mountain setting and share a sack lunch. The riders vary in age from 10 to 80. It's a gentle group with no prior experience required. More experienced riders help those who are new or someone who has a young horse learning backcountry ways. The "tramps" ride the Valley floor early in the season and move into the cool high country canyons when the weather gets hotter. Quarter horses, Arabians, Appaloosas, and Morgans make up the bulk of the horses seen through the years. But some of the ladies even ride their mules. Men can come along too...but they have to wear a wig under their hat." |
To enjoy horseback riding for a full or half day ride with local guides:
contact: Lost Horse Creek Lodge 406-363-1460
Or, for Continental Divide Trail Rides: (406) 821-4627 .
FISHING
Testament of a Fisherman
I fish because I love to: because I love the environs where trout are found, which are invariably beautiful..........because mercifully there are no phones on trout waters; because only in the woods can I find solitude without loneliness.....because one day I will catch a mermaid and finally not because I regard fishing as being so terribly important but because I suspect that so many of the other cares of men are equally unimportant and not nearly so much fun.
Robert Traver |
The crystal clear trout waters of the Bitterroot River flow like life's blood through the high mountain valley that shares its name. What the river may lack in whitewater thrills, it makes up for in quality fly fishing and scenic beauty.
The Bitterroot River is one of the rare rivers in America that flows north. It begins in the ice and snowfields of the Bitterroot and Sapphire Mountains then flows north past Missoula where it becomes part of the Clark Fork River system. Access to fishable water is relatively easy - very different than in some mountain states like Colorado. The public access in Montana is governed by The Stream Access Law that allows foot traffic above the high water mark of all navigable waterways. Check local maps and customs to be sure if certain side waters have a private designation.
Cutthroat, rainbow, browns, brookies, whitefish, and fishing regulations that allow for a 12 month season - Western Montana has them all. There are streams, spring creeks, wide rivers, ponds, and lakes. Pick your environment and your gear. Build an extra garage or just park outside so you'll have enough room for the boat, float tubes, waders, canoe, kayak, and ice house! So many choices, so few lifetimes!
Fishing regulations designate some areas of the Bitterroot River as catch and release only. Bait and fishing lures are allowed on other sections of the river and in some canyon streams and mountain lakes. Fly fishing, however, is by far the most prevalent style of fishing. Back country fishing on small creeks and ponds is artfully accomplished with a handful of flies: gray-hackle peacocks, yellow humpies, orange parachutes, and adams.
Fish the Bitterroot River in a raft for the best results. Guides offer invaluable lessons on the river that can be repeated later on a solo trip. I suggest a fast-forward approach by taking at least one guided trip to learn about the various channels of the river, the irrigation diversions, put-in and take-out places, shuttles and, of course, the hatches. Common hatches include Spring skwala, salmonfly, gray drakes, mayflies, caddis, damsel, grasshoppers and midges.
Guided floats include shuttles, gear, gourmet streamside lunches and lots of casting help. Recommended gear includes a 5-6 weight rod, dry flyline, polarized sunglasses, a warm jacket, and rain gear. Catch-and-release is the usual policy with guides and outfitters.
For the most fun day on the river contact:
FLY FISHING ALWAYS
Guides: Rick Thomas and John Foust (famous fly tier, humorist, inventor of many fabulous fishing things, and fantastic fly fisherman) www.flyfishingalways.com
For statewide fishing regulations: http://fwp.state.mt.us
GOLF
Nicklaus, Fazio, and North - designer's names on courses that also offer the magnificent beauty of Montana. If you visit Montana, bring your golf clubs for some of the best courses in the West. In the Bitterroot Valley there are three courses, two public and one private.
Whitetail Golf Course
Public -The Whitetail Golf Course is located at the edge of the 2,800 acre Lee Metcalf Wildlife Refuge and alongside the Bitterroot River. This nine-hole course has long fairways, lots of water, great scenery and challenging greens.
The Hamilton Golf Club
Public -The Hamilton Golf Club is a beautiful 18-hole course located east of Hamilton with a panoramic view of the Bitterroot Mountains. The course has a terrific layout with mature trees, lots of ditch and pond hazards, long fairways, and classy par-3's that require finesse. The pro-shop is well-stocked and the course very well managed. It is a pleasure to play!
Stock Farm
Private - This 18-hole championship Tom Fazio course is one of the designer's favorites. The course has elevation changes, authentic trestle bridges, natural and man-made waterways, hidden cart paths and mountain views to distraction. Large ponderosa pines, sage, and high mountain prairies surround the course. Equity memberships and select home-sites ranging from 1.29 acres to 37 acres are priced from $600,000 to $1,500,000... and Stock Farm ranches from $1,800,000 and $6,400,000. There are over 30 miles of hiking and riding trails through the 2,600 acre facility which also features a gorgeous equestrian facility, tennis courts, swimming pool, exercise facility, and a 24,000 square-foot log lodge with gourmet dining.
Click here to receive more information about Stock Farm.
WINTER SPORTS
Lost Trail Powder Mountain is located only 60 minutes from Hamilton and is over 60 years old. Average snowfall is 300 plus inches and FANTASTIC POWDER SKIING. Vertical drop is 1,200 ft. and the new expansion will feature an 1,800 foot drop. Base elevation is 6,600 ft. with the summit at 7,800 ft. Currently, there are 4 chairs and 2 rope tows. Terrain is divided with beginner slopes at 20%, Intermediate at 60%, and Advanced at 20%. There are 38 trails and 18 well-groomed runs.
Because the ski area is located on Bitterroot Forest Service land, there are things missing from the ski area - crowds, destination condos, night clubs, and hurried attitudes. If you "Go for the Snow" - Lost Trail is a place for you. Prices are low (adults $28.00 and Children $18.00) and accommodations are close. There are cabins at the Lost Trial Hot Springs Resort as well as a Bed and Breakfast guest ranch just down the hill. There is a spacious lodge with hot meals and equipment rentals. For more information call (406) 821-3211 or check the website at: www.losttrail.com
Cross-country ski trails are too numerous to individually mention in the Bitterroot Valley and Big Hole high country. The Bitterroot Cross Country Ski Club maintains the Chief Joseph Ski Course. Trails range from the average of 3 miles to 8 miles and wind through some of prettiest mountain terrain the country has to offer for winter sports. Trails are marked with course markers and have plowed parking areas at many locations. There are a few log cabins on Forest Service land that can be rented in the winter for back country sportsman. Contact the Forest Service District office nearby.
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